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An employee pushes a pizza into the oven at Little Beast in the District. The restaurant's owner, Aaron Gordon, plans to open a “ghost food hall” in September in response to the pandemic. (Rey Lopez)

In the early days of the novel coronavirus pandemic, D.C. restaurateur Aaron Gordon couldn’t sleep.

The world was shutting down around him, and he had closed his restaurants’ dining rooms in response to social distancing mandates. He worried about how he would put food on his family’s table when the business model he used to feed other people had transformed radically, nearly overnight.